fashion   //   February 21, 2010

NY Fashion Week Fall 2010: Part Two

Ralph Lauren

Inspiration: The designer’s own 1993 campaign/Sheila Metzner photograph of Tyra Banks
Accessories: Knit caps; beaded necklaces; fingerless lace gloves
Favorite Look: Wool blazer cinched with a distressed belt over a tired skirt and opaque tights
Thoughts: When explaining his Fall 2010 collection, Ralph Lauren said he was “in a romantic and bohemian mood.” We can tell. The collection was a vision of fall romance with floral prints that appeared on fluid dresses paired with girlish accessories, including knit caps and fingerless lace gloves. There were also exquisite embroideries, including a fierce black dress that was reminiscent of a modern day flapper. But Lauren didn’t just give us pretty. Known for blending masculine touches with his feminine pieces, the designer sent pinstripes in the form a cropped jacket and vest over skinny pants down the runway.  

Paris 68

Inspiration: The student revolutions in Paris in 1968 (hence the line’s name)
Accessories: Faux silver gloves (it’s actually just paint!); sky-high booties
Favorite Look: Hand-embellished leggings/long sleeve dress 
Thoughts: Though no stranger to the fashion scene, Marcella Lindberg (a creative consultant for William Rast) unveiled her first collection under her own label last week. This collection is everything we love about French fashion: elegant and chic with a hint of edge. The first look to strut the runway was a remarkable merge of a minidress and leggings and certainly set the tone for the rest of this brilliant show. Focusing on a palette of dusty pinks, gunmetal grays and metallics, Lindberg sent sent one exquisite look after another down the runway, including hand-embellished skirt/legging combos, peplum-hemmed blazers, leather jackets, mohair capes, and tasseled miniskirts. One things is clear: this is a line you’ll want to keep your eye on. 
Phillip Lim

Inspiration: 1970s Halston/Punk
Accessories: Oversized animal print handbags/Louboutin stilettos
Favorite Look: Plaid wool jumper with criss-cross straps worn over oatmeal-colored wool sweater
Thoughts: Philip Lim took us to the disco with this ’70s inspired collection. There were all your classic ’70s staples: plaid, wide-leg trousers, shearling and fur (very “Penny Lane” in Almost Famous). I especially loved the wool skirts with the body straps. Lim also used this same criss-cross technique on a pair of trousers paired with a silk purple top. Lim’s creations also took us out for a night at Studio 54 with several sequin-covered asymmetrical frocks. I can’t wait to see (and try on) these pieces in person come fall. The real genius lies in that no matter what the overall idea of his collection is, you can always find something that is wearable. 
Boy by Band of Outsiders

Inspiration: Manhattan/1972 Woody Allen/Joan Didion/REI
Accessories: Saddle shoes; oversized sunnies by Silver Lining
Favorite Look: Light grey wool blazer with fur collar worn with black cotton dress and saddle shoes
Thoughts: I can always count on Scott Sternberg to present a fresh take on preppy, tomboyish looks. There were plenty of tailored jackets, tweed pants, slouchy sweaters, and all were paired with oversized sunglasses. Sternberg always keeps his looks modern by mixing different textures and fabrics (I especially loved the mixing of different stripes on a miniskirt). The styling of this collection was masterful – each piece blended perfectly with the rest of the ensemble while still managing to make a statements on its own.

Alexander Wang

Inspiration: “Deconstructed Wall Street”
Accessories: Velvet backpacks; thigh-high leggings; Linda Farrow oversized velvet sunnies
Favorite Look: Black draped assymetrical dress with cinched in waist 
Thoughts: Simply stated: Wang took the popular menswear-inspired looks for women and ripped them up. Literally. Taking a cue from Wall Street (although I doubt you’ll be wearing these pieces to the office), there were pants and skirts with cutouts around the hips and pinstripe blazers cut at the midriff. This collection highlighted one of Wang’s strong suits: draping. Seen on a cozy gray sweater and several of the dresses (especially a lovely black one), the draping was simply exquisite and so well done. Another major element of Wang’s collection was velvet. As always, Wang’s collection was undeniably cool.  

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