NY Fashion Week Fall 2010: Part One

fashion // February 20, 2010

It’s officially the end of an era. After nearly two decades of housing fashion’s most elite event, the tents at Bryant Park closed for the final time last night after a finale show by Tommy Hilfiger. Beginning in September of this year, the shows will move to Lincoln Center. To celebrate the final hurrah, designers brought their best for the Fall 2010 collections. Here are some of my favorites:



Marc Jacobs



Inspiration: Dorothy from The Wizard of Oz
Accessories: Envelope clutches; all shoes (including adorable Mary Janes) worn with socks
Favorite Look: Metallic silver gown
Thoughts: MJ surprised viewers by presenting a collection that was completely, well, un-MJ. Known for being a rebel in the fashion pack, Jacobs normally presents us with things like flourescent ’80s jackets and heel-less high heels (all of those fabulously unpractical items that we love so much). But not this time. For his fall collection, Jacobs gave us pieces that were totally practical and very wearable. Working with a neutral palette consisting of mainly grays and taupes, the designer presented a wide variety of pieces, including wool coats, tea-length dresses, and even a three-piece suit. While the collection may have been less colorful than in seasons past, the future (especially in retail) is certainly as bright as ever.



J. Mendel



Inspiration: Ryan McGinley’s “Moonmilk” series
Accessories: Christine McPartland’s gunmetal pyramid jewelry and all things fur (mittens, muffs, berets and even handbags)
Favorite Look: Moss green strapless chiffon gown
Thoughts: Just when you thought Gilles Mendel had done fur every which way possible, he sends out his Fall 2010 collection starring fur as its main character. Inspired by Ryan McGinley’s photographs of caves, Mendel created luxurious fur pieces by combining different types of fur in unusual ways (patchworking, for example). Don’t worry, Mendel didn’t leave us without delivering some of his exceptional evening gowns. Working with a palette of blue, red and green, the designer wowed us with several sophisticated and modern gowns sure to be seen very soon on the red carpet.

The Row



Inspiration: Straightforward basics
Accessories: Gladiator sandals
Favorite Look: White 3/4-length sleeve sheath
Thoughts: At last, the wait is over. Ever since the Olsens debuted The Row three years ago, I have been patiently waiting for this design duo to present at fashion week. For their first show, the Olsens said they wanted “do something low-key and straight to the point.” Mission accomplished! The collection focused on a tri-color palette of black, navy and white and featured sophisticated and elegant staples (think buttoned-up shirts, tuxedo jackets and silk trousers). While keeping things simple and chic, the designers also experimented with textures by incorporating blue python into their cropped jackets, clutches and mini-skirts.

Rag & Bone




Inspiration: “…the crazy English guys who climbed Mount Everest in the twenties in tweed.” (Style.com)
Accessories: Cashmere legwarmers; lace-up boots; bolero ties; backpacks
Favorite Look: Green Harris tweed blazer worn over a hoodie, black silk shirt and shorts
Thoughts: In fashion, layering is an art. And David Neville and Marcus Wainwright are artists. The talented duo sent their models down the runway in layer upon layer of cozy outerwear. Their inspriration was clear in the blazers, utility belts and vests that accentuated each look. Each ensemble was flawlessly styled (thanks to Vanessa Reid) and could literally be worn straight from the runway out into the flurry-filled streets of New York.



Proenza Schouler




Inspiration: The 1990s
Accessories: PS11 (the new version of their famed PS1); thigh-high hose (trend alert); saddle shoes
Favorite Look: High-waisted pleated leather skirt worn with a crisp white shirt and cotton blazer
Thoughts: Blue must this design team’s favorite color. Continuing with the true blues we saw in their spring 2010 show, the designers infused their fall collection with midnight and robin’s egg hues. Reminiscient of school girl style, the collection featured pleated miniskirts, tailored blazers and saddle shoes. The designers also focused on graffiti-esque print that was present in a pair of skinny jeans that they created alongside JBrand (go ahead and put yourself on the waiting list for a pair of these). It’s been said over and over again but Jack Mccollough and Lazaro Hernandez really are the coolest kids on the block.

Marchesa



Inspiration: Circus performer Lola Montez
Accessories: Louboutins with adorable bows up the front
Favorite Look: Cotton-candy pink silk and organza gown
Thoughts: Feathers, lace, organza and tulle: all of the necessary ingredients to create a Marchesa masterpiece were present for the Fall collection. Designers Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig presented flawless pieces including several embroidered gowns and a couple of suede numbers. Red carpet worthy? Absolutely. Which one of these pieces do you think we’ll see on the red carpet come March 8?

Victoria Beckham

Inspiration: Comic books (specifically Dick Tracy)
Accessories: Brian Atwood sky-high stilettos; oversized sunnies
Favorite Look: Every. Single. Piece.
Thoughts: I’ll admit I was totally skeptical when the former Spice Girl announced she would start designing and would show her collections seasonally at NY Fashion Week. But four collections in and I’m officially one of her biggest fans. Beckham remained true to form by focusing her fall collection solely on dresses (26 of them, to be exact) The signature sheaths ranged from well-tailored above-the-knee frocks to form-fitting (and exquisitely draped) evening gowns. (Note: Beckham revealed that she plans to wear the nude-colored one shouldered gown to the Oscars.) I would wear every single piece in this entire collection. What do you think? Has she won you over yet?